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Post by MK-M-GOBL on Jan 24, 2006 6:41:03 GMT
Well I think I got it figured out. I'm trying to work a 280 load and my first problem was I had set the die to what the book stated the OAL on a 280 round which 3.330". Well I was looking at a factory load which was much smaller than what my OAL was This confused me as to how far the seat the bullet. I then read in the Speer's book I should try and match the OVL or a factory load. I went to my gun cabinet and grabbed one of my Federal 140gr. ballistic tip rounds and it was right on the money to what I had my die set ;D So after prepping 4 cases and got them primed I started loading. I 100% confident in what I loaded tonight but thought I'd run it by you first to see what you think. Case= Win 280Rem (nickled) Primer= CCI 250 LG Rifle Powder= IMR 4350 @ 52gr. Bullet= Nosler Ballistic Tip 140gr. Spitzer Here's where I need you input After I loaded the four rounds tonight, I checked & weighted them each and came up with these stats. Now, because they all didn't turn out @ 3.330", what's the variance allowed? And seeing I had the power all @ 52gr. Do you worry about checking the case weight before reloading? 1. OVL 3.289" OAW 383.6gr. 2. OVL 3.288" OAW 384.0gr. 3. OVL 3.288" OAW 383.8gr. 4. OVL 3.288" OAW 383.8gr.
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Post by whitetail71165 on Jan 24, 2006 12:00:40 GMT
I don't measure or weigh the rounds after they're loaded. The differences that you have in your rounds are fine and are probably better than factory tolerences.
As long as your primers are set flush and the cases are trimmed to recommended length you should be fine. Headspace would be your major concern here. When i first load for a weapon i will put a bullet in an uncharged case and load it into the weapon to check that the weapon loads easily.
Weight can differ if you don't weigh each and every charge. If your using a powder measure and don't weigh each and every charge it can differ slightly. Most of my charges i will weigh a couple and if they are staying consistant then i'll charge 10 then weigh it again to check, charge 10 more then check again. Rounds i will be using to sight in i will weigh each and every charge.
I hope this helps.
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Post by MK-M-GOBL on Jan 25, 2006 3:52:41 GMT
Thanks it did ;D I have two questions for you. First question pretty easy, brass or nickel? Second question, You're prepping cases and need to trim a few. What's the tenth or hundredths of an inch variation from published measurements you would accept before throwing the brass away.
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Post by whitetail71165 on Jan 25, 2006 14:04:19 GMT
The answer to your first question is brass.
In my experience the casings never usually need much trimming so how much i have to trim it doesn't factor into whether or not i keep the brass. I generally will reload a casing 3 times then trash it unless i've found a crack or some other sign of weakness.
I have found that crimped cases require more trimming than uncrimped so when i load for my .35 cal. generally i'll reload twice then discard the cases.
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Post by MK-M-GOBL on Jan 25, 2006 14:10:45 GMT
Thanks again! I'm going to the shop today to pick up new brass and 22 Hornet supplies.
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Post by whitetail71165 on Jan 27, 2006 1:46:06 GMT
Let me know how you make out.
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Post by MK-M-GOBL on Jan 27, 2006 2:18:29 GMT
Did OK loading the 22 Hornet ammo but I won't know how they'll shoot out it! I got rid of the 22 Hornet today and..... .....bought a Ruger M/77 220swift ;D I got two boxes of ammo plus the dies for reloading her
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Post by whitetail71165 on Jan 27, 2006 12:16:34 GMT
Nice! Did you plan on trading it or was it a last minute thing?
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Post by MK-M-GOBL on Jan 27, 2006 13:16:27 GMT
I'd have to say last minute seeing I dropped $90 on dies, powder, brass and Nolser heads the night before. I've been thinking about ever since I picked up a ballistic book but never just went and did.
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Post by whitetail71165 on Jan 28, 2006 1:04:58 GMT
Well congratulations. Hope you enjoy it. I've got a couple i've been looking over. Gotta talk to the Gunney about it first though. She can be pretty tight.
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Post by love2hunt on Apr 5, 2006 1:58:45 GMT
I have a question, why brass over nickel? I've yet to reload but i have a press, scale, and trimmer. I have .270 dies coming from cabelas. What else do I need? Thanks! I can't wait to get into it!!!
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Post by whitetail71165 on Apr 14, 2006 22:20:57 GMT
Brass is generally used for rifles and nickle for pistols. Brass holds up better to the camber pressures of rifles.
As for equipment needed for reloading. A set of calipers and michrometer, deburring tool, primer pocket cleaner, tumbler for cleaning brass, scale and powder trickler. Purchase the Speer reloading manual vol. 13. It will give you simple basic steps to start and what tools are required. Also has ballistic tables and powder charts for most of the popular ammo.
Let me know how you make out.
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Post by love2hunt on Apr 17, 2006 21:56:05 GMT
Hey, Thanks. I have everything I need now, only thing is that i bought the nosler reloading manual earlier. It seems pretty informative and has good diagrams. I have about 80 nickel shells and 30 brass shells I have fired out of my gun. Is it worth it reloading the nickel ones? The only thing I have left to buy is the powder. I was thinking about 4831. What is the best brand for this?
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Post by whitetail71165 on Apr 17, 2006 22:31:09 GMT
The 4831 would be the IMR brand powder which is what i use. You need to match the powder with the weight bullet you plan to load. It also may call for a magnum primer to be used. Example: In the Speer load chart it shows a 90 gr. bullet loaded with IMR 4831 powder and using a CCI Magnum primer. They should list several different powders that you can use for each weight bullet. I would try several because every rifle is different and it can change the accuracy of the round.
A tip for you. Be sure to check each casing for splits or other defects. Also i never reload a casing more than 2 times.
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Post by love2hunt on Apr 17, 2006 22:39:51 GMT
For the bullet I am planning on reloading the most accurate load was the IMR 4831 so i think i will start with that. I have inspected every case and there aren't any stress marks or cracks. What I am noticing is an expansion on the very bottom of the case where it sticks out from the chamber and in the bolt. Is this normal and will using a sizing die take care of that or is it no problem? It's very consistent on all the factory loaded shells i have fired from my rifle. I guess i forgot, i also haven't bought any primers.
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