I am refinishing an old 22 stock. I am going to fill the knots and gouges with the shellac and sawdust method. My question is this: can I still use an oil-based stain or will it react with the shellac?
Having a background in refinishing furniture, I prefer Minwax stains and matching Minwax polyurethanes (avail at all Home Cheapos)
If you refinish the complete stock including under barrel and in trigger area you'll get a completely waterproof finish with polyurethane....done right with min of four coats and proper steelwooling/light sanding it'll be hard to beat
I did a 20ga sxs (dating back from the early 50's) and the stock looked like it was used for a canoe paddle.....with a new recoil pad and refinish job, it looks brand new (with the exception of a few battle scars....
I like the battlescars, it gives the gun a "New but Broken-In" feel
One thing I will always make sure of.........if I left a spot today, you can bet there would have been nothing done to make sure you could hunt there tomorrow.
I use the oil based stuff, I like to sand and prepare the green wood then let the stain soak in only for a few minutes, then buff off........a couple of day dryout, then the first coat of poly I thin it slightly to allow deeper soak in for the first coat.....
Then each coat has to be 400 grit sanded lightly, 0000 steel wooled, tack ragged........min one day per coat (few days if wet/rainy)
the urethanes are great for weather if done right, plus you can get flat, satin, gloss for your desired look
There are other ways but I prefer the water proofing of the urethanes myself....
What MJFlores said :)I also prefer what willy said,Minwax products,can't beat it,easy to use,you can get the desired finish you want, oe mat,i just redid my 243,it came out great,i did the inlay a different color.if you want to get a really hard finish you can use the 2 part urathane,but i would stick with the minwax,a good fine steel wool between coats,
A guy I know that used to make higher-end stocks for T/C's used tung oil quite a bit. I've used it on a couple of forends for my Contenders and it works well. Use Formby's, you can get it in satin or high gloss. 00 steel wool between coats, and it's easy to touch up if it gets scratched in the future.
Decided not to fill the gouges, there are just too many. Its an old beater that has seen some abuse. I sanded it out best I could without changing the shape and stained it. I will finish it this week. Thanks for all the input on finishes guys.