Refinishing Question

[ecgreen]

I am refinishing an old 22 stock. I am going to fill the knots and gouges with the shellac and sawdust method. My question is this: can I still use an oil-based stain or will it react with the shellac?

If anyone knows that would be great!

Sean

[bowhunter603]

a finish carpenter told me once to fix small holes using the stain you plan to use and sawdust. never tried it myself and would think the stain wouldnt hold it well.

[ecgreen]

I heard that elsewhere too. Thats what I will do in the end i think. I saved all my sanding dust, so I'll stain that then glue it in and sand again - then stain the whole stock.

[Willy-C]

Sean,

Having a background in refinishing furniture, I prefer Minwax stains and matching Minwax polyurethanes (avail at all Home Cheapos)

If you refinish the complete stock including under barrel and in trigger area you'll get a completely waterproof finish with polyurethane....done right with min of four coats and proper steelwooling/light sanding it'll be hard to beat

I did a 20ga sxs (dating back from the early 50's) and the stock looked like it was used for a canoe paddle.....with a new recoil pad and refinish job, it looks brand new (with the exception of a few battle scars....

I like the battlescars, it gives the gun a "New but Broken-In" feel

[ecgreen]

Willy,

I am a minwax man too. Do you use oil or water based on your stocks?

[Willy-C]

I use the oil based stuff, I like to sand and prepare the green wood then let the stain soak in only for a few minutes, then buff off........a couple of day dryout, then the first coat of poly I thin it slightly to allow deeper soak in for the first coat.....

Then each coat has to be 400 grit sanded lightly, 0000 steel wooled, tack ragged........min one day per coat (few days if wet/rainy)

the urethanes are great for weather if done right, plus you can get flat, satin, gloss for your desired look

There are other ways but I prefer the water proofing of the urethanes myself....

[ecgreen]

Thanks for all the info man, it is much appreciated. ever try truoil?

[Willy-C]

No, haven't heard if it before......is it a linseed oil base?

[mjflores]

You can raise some of the dents with steam from an iron prior to refinishing.

[regnar]

friend on FB posted this.

www.wwch.org/Technique/Finishes/OilFin.htm

[firestormhtr]

What MJFlores said :)I also prefer what willy said,Minwax products,can't beat it,easy to use,you can get the desired finish you want, oe mat,i just redid my 243,it came out great,i did the inlay a different color.if you want to get a really hard finish you can use the 2 part urathane,but i would stick with the minwax,a good fine steel wool between coats,

[danf]

A guy I know that used to make higher-end stocks for T/C's used tung oil quite a bit. I've used it on a couple of forends for my Contenders and it works well. Use Formby's, you can get it in satin or high gloss. 00 steel wool between coats, and it's easy to touch up if it gets scratched in the future.

[ecgreen]

Decided not to fill the gouges, there are just too many. Its an old beater that has seen some abuse. I sanded it out best I could without changing the shape and stained it. I will finish it this week. Thanks for all the input on finishes guys.

[ecgreen]

30plus coats of boiled linseed later...probably 10 more to go then polish. wish i had taken a before shot. it was hammered. 1941 remington target master

[ecgreen]

Bad quality photo from my phone...it is much more glossy in person